A Litter Box Setup That Actually Prevents Problems

As you walk by the litter box you notice an unpleasant smell. The cat just used it 20 minutes ago. Something isn't right.

Most litter box issues stem from the box setup not the cat. When you get the basics right from the start, you eliminate most of the frustration that makes people quit, or think their cat is being troublesome.

The Box Itself Matters More

To dig around and have enough space to turn, your cat needs a litter box that allows it to turn around without brushing its tail against the walls. A good measuring stick is a box that is one and a half times your cat's length from the nose to the tail.

Although it is good to have a clean litter box, covered boxes trap all the odor and leave your cat with nowhere to go but to breathe the odor. Also, open boxes are preferred by most cats. If litter scatter is a problem, try a high sided open box instead of going with a lid.

It has been reported by owners that cats tend to avoid boxes that are too small. What may look cute and small in the bathroom may be a cramped potty to your cat.

The Number You Actually Need

The general rule is to have one box for every cat in the house, plus one extra. While this may sound excessive, it’s not uncommon for cats to have preferences when it comes to elimination: some may want to urinate in one box and defecate in another.

If your house has multiple levels, there should be a box on every level. The more boxes, the less chance there is for an accident, because no one wants to be the cat that has to trek up and down the stairs to find a box.

Juniper has two boxes, and she is an only cat, but I have seen her use each box multiple times, so it’s good that she has options. It just works.

Location Changes Everything

Pick an area for the boxes where the cat will be able to use the box freely and will not be startled by a lot of noise and people. Avoid areas near washing machines and other appliances that are noisy.

Cats need to be able to make an exit. Don't box them in corners or closets where pets or toddlers could make them trapped. They need to be able to see what's coming to not feel trapped and escape.

A bathroom may seem like a logical box location, but your cat's access needs to be considered. If the door is closed, a cat that needs to use the bathroom will end up going elsewhere if the door is closed.

Litter Depth and Type

A good amount of litter is about two to three inches deep. If it's not enough, there's nothing to dig into. Though, if there's too much, it might feel too unstable under their paws.

Most cats prefer unscented clumping litter. However, some cats can have strong opinions on this and is not recommended as a general rule. If you do need to switch your litter type, do this gradually by mixing a little new litter in week by week.

Your best bet is to avoid using liners. They can bunch up (as any human would hate. Think of it as a foot bed that bunched up), claw snagging, and can provide a surface that many cats hate enough to go somewhere else.

Scooping Keeps the Peace

Try to scoop the litter box daily. Ideally, do it to two or three times a day. While it may not smell to most people, cats have a much stronger sense of smell, and a box that is clean enough for most people may be scented too strongly to a cat.\n\nEvery two to four weeks you should dump and wash the litter box with a mild soap and water. Replace the box itself once a year as plastic traps odors even with thorough cleaning.\n\nWhen cats start to avoid the litter box, unusually dirty litter boxes are usually the cause. Cleaning the litter box is the easiest fix to a cat avoid litter problems and works more often than you'd expect.